After decades of war and isolation, Afghanistan is seeing the slow return of international tourists—arriving by plane, camper van, motorbike, and even bicycle—drawn by curiosity, adventure, and the country’s dramatic landscapes and rich history.

The Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan (IEA)  government, which took control in August 2021 and remains unrecognized by all but a few nations, is eager to welcome them.

“The Afghan people are warm and welcoming and wish to host tourists from other countries and engage with them,” Deputy Minister of Tourism Qudratullah Jamal told AP in an interview earlier this month. “Tourism brings many benefits to a country, and we aim for our nation to take full advantage.”

While still modest, the numbers are growing. Nearly 9,000 foreign tourists visited Afghanistan in 2023, with almost 3,000 arriving in just the first quarter of 2024, according to Jamal. The government has eased visa procedures, increased flight connectivity through hubs like Dubai and Istanbul, and established a tourism training institute.

Tourism’s potential economic impact is clear. “We are currently earning considerable revenue from this industry, and we are hopeful it will grow,” Jamal said. “It reaches more people than other industries and can evolve into a large part of our economy.”

Yet the appeal of adventure tourism in Afghanistan is not without challenges, especially as the country remains under Western travel advisories due to security concerns. 

Ethical questions also loom. The IEA’s restrictions on women and girls—including bans on secondary and university education, most professions, and public leisure spaces—have drawn global condemnation. Beauty salons are banned, and strict dress codes enforced. Yet foreign women face far fewer restrictions and are typically allowed to move more freely, sometimes even entering parks barred to Afghan women.

Jamal declined to address the issue of women’s rights directly, saying only that both male and female tourists were welcome: “Those who respect our laws and traditions have already come and can continue to come.”

Some travelers acknowledged grappling with the moral implications of visiting. French-Peruvian Illary Gomez and her British partner, James Liddiard, spent a year debating whether to pass through Afghanistan on their U.K.-to-Japan camper van journey. 

“Some things didn’t feel morally right,” Gomez admitted. But once in the country, they were struck by the kindness of ordinary Afghans. “You put money in the hands of the people, not the government,” Liddiard told AP.

For the IEA, tourism is also about diplomacy. “It’s a great way to promote interaction between people of different countries,” Jamal said. “It expands commerce, fosters mutual understanding, and builds trust. This is not just economic development—it brings spiritual and political benefits.”